Primavera Sound: A Retrospective

   

TW: vomiting 🙁

I am a big proponent of music festivals. Growing up in Austin, Texas, my parents told me stories of going to Austin City Limits (ACL) and seeing artists like Jack Johnson, Calexico, Wilco, and The Pixies for something like $75. In my ACL experiences, I paid somewhere around $360 to see artists that I loved and discover some that I had never heard before. It’s almost shameful to admit that I found Tanya Tucker’s music because my friends forced me to wait for Noah Kahan’s set. As a result, I’ve started paying attention to other music festivals, specifically the European ones. Reading and Leeds almost always has an incredible line-up. So does Primavera Sound, as I discovered through Eliza McLamb’s trek there. Given that I was studying abroad the next year, I decided to go. I planned a significant amount of my European adventures around the fact that I was going to go to Barcelona and go to Primavera Sound. It just seemed cool.

To set up some context for my Primavera Sound experience: Barcelona was my last stop on my three week trip around Europe after my study abroad course had ended. I spent a week in Scotland and Ireland and subsequently began the long-distance part of my relationship with an English boy I met in London. I spent a week in the Netherlands and Germany with my mother, and then I was on my own. I was exhausted and wanted to go home. I missed my friends, from university, and study abroad, and high school, and my family, and my pets, and my newfound boyfriend. I wanted to fly home straight from Berlin with my mother, but as I had spent a not-insignificant amount of money to go to this festival, I was determined to see it out.

My first mistake was that my hostel was about forty minutes, public transportation wise, from the festival. I had booked the hostel because it was fairly close to multiple metro stations and near the center of the city. Barcelona’s public transportation runs until 10pm on weekdays, midnight on Fridays, and 24 hours on Saturdays. Barcelona also runs mostly on a cab system, and doesn’t have Uber to the extent that we do in the States, due to government regulation. This matters because Primavera Sound starts at four in the afternoon and ends at six in the morning, taking place over the first week of June. The timing makes sense with Spanish culture, obviously, but I would not recommend it if you’ve been traveling for three weeks. It’s a miracle I didn’t get sick immediately after. The first day of the festival usually starts on Wednesday and is a free concert as long as you reserve the tickets in time. I did not, and missed out on seeing Wet Leg and Guitarricadelafuente. I wasn’t super bothered because I was hanging out with my roommate, who did the U of A’s summer study abroad Barcelona program, and had just arrived in the city. So our story starts on Thursday.

It started raining a little on the way to the festival, but I wasn’t super concerned. After four months of living in London, rain was extremely inconsequential. Primavera Sound has an app where you can access information about the festival and then a separate app for tickets. You can bring a bag of any size, which is incomprehensible to the American mind, and the food and drinks aren’t obscenely priced. I was paying $10 per meal, unheard of at American festivals. It’s a festival that’s not super difficult to navigate, but you will also get your steps in. Occident is the first stage you see when you walk in, and is pretty large. There are two stages that are right next to each other, Revolut and Estrella Damm, and the rest are smaller stages on the opposite side of the festival. This leads to extremely effective scheduling, with acts starting within fifteen minutes of each other. The t-shirt I paid for was €60, but also extremely high quality and had stitching of the festival logo over the left pocket. I stained it irreparably a month later.

I bought water immediately, and headed over to the stage Blood Orange was playing on— Revolut. If I had been earlier, I might have seen Cameron Winter play his album on an indoor stage, but tickets ran out quickly. Blood Orange was incredible and his music expands beautifully when played outdoors. He started by playing “How Soon Is Now?” by The Smiths on the cello before transitioning to his song “Saint.” Ascendant. The set was so fun to sing along and dance to, even surrounded by millennials. He ended with “Champagne Coast” and the song played out my sprint to Geese, who were on the other side of the festival on the Occident Stage.

They opened with “Husbands” and Winter spoke in broken Spanish for the majority of the set. At some point, I swore the camera angled on bassist Dominic DiGesu accidentally showed Olivia Rodrigo backstage. Well, a girl with long dark hair, wearing a red leather jacket and sunglasses. Olivia Rodrigo coded. Geese’s performance at Primavera Sound is one of my favorite festival sets I’ve ever attended. During “I See Myself” the crowd sang back to Winter with such confidence, in a way that beautifully reflected the love imbued in the song (I pulled the video off Reddit. There is literally no footage of this performance that I can find on YouTube. There is a forty second video in my Twitter bookmarks. I would start at minute 22). As they continued down the set list, the rain continued gently, barely noticeable during “Au Du Pays Cocaine” and matching the tinkling notes throughout the song. Through “Taxes” the rain got harder, before ending up in a complete downpour during “Trinidad,” resulting in them ending the set early. A literal exodus of people left the Occident Stage and began heading towards cover. Primavera Sound is a concrete site in Parc del Forum, which is on the northern shore of Barcelona. The food area is one of the only places with cover, although thankfully there was no mud. I was starving and tried to get to food and could not step in any direction. When I gave up and decided to leave the festival, as there were no more artists I was super interested in seeing that day, I ran into a British influencer who I had already seen in passing in London.

“Are you that influencer?” I asked. 

“I might be,” he responded with a half-grin and shrug.

“You definitely are,” I said, eyeing him and pushing through the crowd.

I was home by ten. 

Friday, I went to the festival with my roommate and her sister, who was interning in Barcelona. My roommate and I met up, and, meeting resistance on trying to fit onto the tram that would take us to the festival, ended up taking the metro there. We started with Slowdive, on Revolut, who were near impossible to understand lyrically, but, similarly to Blood Orange, had a lush and expansive sound. As we went to the bathroom and got drinks, Ethel Cain played in the background. With the crowd still sparse, we ended up pretty close to the stage for Addison Rae, who gave a stunning performance that seemed more apt for an awards show than a music festival. I have seen artists try to put on pageantry-like spectacles at music festivals and it doesn’t always work. Costume changes for an hour set is very different from costume changes at a two and a half hour long show. This was not an issue for Addison Rae. Nor were her vocals, which I had seen people complain about online. She gave a fantastic performance and her dancer training will certainly lend to her cult pop star status. The crowd was also so lively, dancing along happily and knowing the words to almost every single song. She ended with “Fame is a Gun” and I slipped through the crowd to get to the stage next door, Estrella Damm, for the main reason I bought Primavera Sound tickets: The Cure.

The Cure is an extremely important band to me, mostly because I discovered them through my father. I think my father has extremely good taste in music. He doesn’t trend towards dad rock in the slightest and prefers new wave and post-punk acts of the 80s. He introduced me to New Order and Depeche Mode and Echo & the Bunnymen and INXS. The Cure is one of the only bands that he loves that he’s never been able to see live, so I felt incredibly privileged and verged on tears almost the entire set except for when they played “Lovesong” and then they flowed with ease. Most of the songs they played were from Disintegration (1989), The Head on the Door (1985), and Kiss Me, Kiss Me, Kiss Me (1987). My favorite album from them is Wish (1991) and my favorite song is “A Letter to Elise,” which they did not play, but there was a true sense of community in the crowd. I will say (with only a little disappointment) that I was surrounded by mostly men, although of all ages and people who were speaking English, Spanish, and German. They closed with “Boys Don’t Cry” which might have been one of the best moments of my life. I got water and hurried over to fakemink, for ten minutes of UK underground rap that almost certainly sounds better in my headphones than through speakers. After he played a sped up version of “Easter Pink,” I swapped fakemink for another UK staple, PinkPantheress.

With the release of “Stateside + Zara Larsson,” PinkPantheress blew up again this past spring. Primavera Sound did not reflect her renewed popularity in the size of the stage they put her on, and as a result, I squeezed myself next to two girls in their mid-twenties, one of whom graduated from the University of Arizona, which I found out by eavesdropping. PinkPantheress performed almost all of her new album, Fancy That and a few of her COVID era hits. I greatly prefer the album version of “Stateside” so I was super excited that she performed the album version and didn’t bring out Zara Larsson, who had been seen in Ibiza a day before. DJ Joe was also there and her music reminded me of traipsing around London because she often soundtracked my adventures on public transport.

I had been separated from my roommate when I went to see The Cure and now had to try and find her again in the mess of everyone leaving. Our data was terrible and neither of us were receiving Whatsapp calls or messages from each other. After trying to meet up for thirty minutes, we walked her sister home and tried in vain to get an Uber for two hours. This ranks as one of the most frustrating and anxiety-inducing experiences in my life. I cried and laughed and told a girl I saw Olivia Rodrigo backstage at Geese at a bus stop. I got back to my hostel at 5am, my roommate got home at 5:30. To that I say, never again!

The last day of the festival that I attended was Saturday. There was a closing ceremony on Sunday, but I was flying back to England the next morning so I could catch my flight back home to the States. I went alone, and was brimming with excitement because Olivia Rodrigo announced she was playing a surprise set at the festival. I had planned to just mill around for a few hours until Gorillaz went on, but now I was thrilled. I love Olivia Rodrigo and adore her new music, but wasn’t able to get tickets to her ongoing tour. All of my anxiety about catching my 8am flight the next morning had melted away.

I plopped down on the grass to listen to Big Thief, asking a girl sitting next to me if she would take my picture, and doing the same for her. Adrianne Lenker’s voice is heavenly live and they played a lot of unreleased music. My appreciation for Big Thief definitely increased after seeing them live and I’ve been listening to them way more than previously. I headed over to the vegetarian/vegan food stand to get the vegan burger and fries I had been eating for the past two days. The fries were delicious, but the burger was weirdly cold. I ate it anyway, as I was hungry, but didn’t finish it. Then I walked over to the stage Olivia Rodrigo would be performing on.

Rodrigo herself was fantastic. Her music translates so well live and it was apparent that she was excited to be there. Her vocals on “the cure” were beautiful and then she brought out Robert Smith from The Cure to sing their song “what’s wrong with me.” I felt like the luckiest girl alive. The only two complaints I had would be the sheer amount of phones that were up at any given moment and the four British girls in front of me, who did the thing where they filmed themselves singing with the flash on, except it was apparently obvious they mostly knew SOUR and “vampire.” Towards the end of the set, when “all-american bitch” started, my stomach started turning. It’s nothing, I thought. I just need to drink some more water and go to the bathroom.

It was not nothing. It was food poisoning.

I walked back over to the Estrella Damm stage, threw up in the bathroom, and sat myself down in the grass, listening to The xx begin their set. If you have just eaten food, vomited it up, and are trying to last until one fifteen in the morning to see Gorillaz, I do not recommend listening to The xx. I powered through. I watched Damon Albarn walk on stage, and was perfectly happy standing in the back with all of the old people. Albarn was clearly having fun and brought out numerous artists that had been featured on Gorillaz’ songs. I lasted just over halfway through the set before deciding I needed to make my way back to the hostel so I could get two hours of sleep before my flight. The last song I heard as I was walking out was “Andromeda,” which is my favorite Gorillaz song. I got back by three and was up by five to go to the airport. I have truly never had any experience close to those three days in Barcelona and I’m so grateful that I got to go, and also a little bit traumatized. I survived Primavera Sound 2026!

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